British Vogue ditches models in favour of "real" women – for one issue

The new issue of British Vogue is to be a “model-free zone” after editors decided to use only “real” women to showcase the designer clothes featured in the magazine.

Among the women included in the issue are the architectural historian Shumi Bose, the charity director Brita Fernandez Schmidt, Hello Love Studio creative director and Hello Beautiful founder Jane Hutchison, and ice-cream brand creator Kitty Travers, as well as some of the women behind London’s Crossrail project.

Alexandra Shulman, the editor of British Vogue, said she commissioned the project because she felt strongly that professional women, or women in positions of authority or power, should be able to indulge their interest in fashion without it seeming frivolous. “In this country, there is still a stigma attached to clearly enjoying how you look and experimenting with it if you are a woman in the public eye and not in the fashion or entertainment business,” she told the Telegraph.

Shulman has edited British Vogue since 1992 and is venerated for her egalitarian attitude to body image. She does not publish stories about diets or cosmetic surgery, and in 2009 wrote a letter to all major designers arguing that the tiny sample sizes they offered for shoots encouraged models to be unhealthily thin. “I was also frustrated by a few designers’ PRs choosing only to lend their clothes if they approved of the appearance of the subject to be photographed rather than what they did,” she said.

The cover of the new Vogue issue, out on 6 October, may been seen to contradict Shulman’s previous claims that readers do not want a “real person” on the front of the magazine. In an interview for BBC Radio 2 in 2014, the editor told guest presenter Lily Allen: “People always say, ‘Why do you have thin models? That’s not what real people look like,’ but nobody really wants to see a real person looking like a real person on the cover of Vogue.

“I think Vogue is a magazine that’s about fantasy to some extent, and dreams, and an escape from real life. People don’t want to buy a magazine like Vogue to see what they see when they look in a mirror. They can do that for free.”

Shulman defended the choice of the actor Emily Blunt as the cover star of the “real” issue by pointing out that she plays an everyday woman in her new film, The Girl on the Train. According to Vogue, Blunt joked about appearing on her first cover: “It took three hours of hair and makeup to get me looking this real!”

The issue comes after H&M used the 60-year-old Scottish stylist Gillean McLeod as the face of its swimwear range and US brand J Crew used staff members and their friends instead of models to showcase its clothes at New York fashion week.

Women’s Equality party leader Sophie Walker has spoken out against ‘systematic malnutrition’ in the fashion industry. Photograph: Suki Dhanda for the Observer

The Women’s Equality party, meanwhile, is campaigning to change the fashion industry’s approach to body image by calling for designers showing in London to display at least two sample sizes, one of which must be more than a UK size 12.

Sophie Walker, the party’s leader, told the Guardian last month that these “tiny, tiny little clothes are such that normal-sized women have to starve themselves to fit into them. And we’re not talking a three-day soup diet here, which would be bad enough; we’re talking weeks and weeks of systematic malnutrition, for which young women are paid to fit into these tiny little sizes.”

Last week, four US Vogue editors were branded “jealous and hypocritical” after complaining about the presence of “pathetic” and “desperate” fashion bloggers at Milan fashion week.

Shulman distanced herself from the row, tweeting:

Alexandra Shulman (@AShulman2)

Can I just be CLEAR. The current Bloggersgate furore is via American Vogue not @BritishVogue.

October 3, 2016

British Vogue ditches models in favour of "real" women – for one issue

Junior doctors: are you in favour of the five-day strike?

The latest plan of action for junior doctors in England, who are locked in a longstanding dispute with the government over new contracts, is an unprecedented five-day strike this month.

The British Medical Association (BMA) agreed on a walk-out on Wednesday, the first since its members rejected the government’s final offer on the contract.

It comes amid a year of strikes (the longest lasting for two consecutive days) and meetings, with more than 100,000 operations and outpatient appointments cancelled so far as a result of industrial action.

Junior doctors seemed close to reaching an agreement with the government in May, when a compromise deal was agreed between the BMA and health secretary Jeremy Hunt. However, there was a split among members when it came to accepting it: 58% against, and 42% in favour.

So what is the feeling among junior doctors now? Are you pro a five-day walk-out or did you vote to accept the deal in May? Are you worried five days is a step too far? Or are you at the end of your tether and think this action is absolutely necessary?

Tell us your views via the form below.

Junior doctors: are you in favour of the five-day strike?

Why I"m in favour of assisted dying | Desmond Tutu

For the duration of all my many years of pastoral care, I have by no means had the privilege of currently being with a person when they die. I’ve visited dying colleagues and friends at St Luke’s hospice, Cape Town, in the final period of their lives I’ve witnessed their becoming cared for beautifully – but I have by no means been there at the actual minute of passing. I’ve been asked why I consider it a privilege to be present when temporal death requires location. It comes from my belief system. It is the wonder of a new life beginning, the wonder of an individual going to meet their maker, returning to their supply of lifestyle. In some methods, death is like a birth it is the transition to a new lifestyle.

I am myself now closer to my end than to my starting.

Dying is portion of life. We have to die. The Earth are not able to sustain us and the hundreds of thousands of folks that came ahead of us. We have to make way for people who are nevertheless to be born. And considering that dying is portion of daily life, talking about it should not be taboo. Men and women ought to die a respectable death. For me that indicates getting had the conversations with people I have crossed in daily life and being at peace. It signifies being able to say goodbye to loved ones – if attainable, at residence.

Lately I mentioned my wishes with my youngest daughter, Mpho: my option of the liturgy, the hymns, and who ought to preach. I would like to lie overnight in St Mary’s Cathedral in Johannesburg. It was such an important area in my existence it is in which I grew to become a deacon, the place so a lot of crucial issues occurred. I would like to be cremated some individuals are not cozy with that notion. I’d like my ashes to be interred at St George’s Cathedral, Cape Town.

There are certain African traditions I am not relaxed with: the turning of images to encounter the wall, the clearing of furniture from the bedroom and putting of straw mats for the ladies to sit on for days. I am comfy that on my passing these traditions must not be followed. It concerns me how individuals get into debt at funerals, purchasing expensive caskets, slaughtering animals they can sick afford to shell out for. I want to position model modesty. I would like a basic coffin, the 1 of plain wood, with the rope handles. I would like modest refreshments following my funeral. If folks want to slaughter an animal as portion of classic ritual, I’d be satisfied with a sheep or a goat – it does not need to be a large animal. My memorial stone must also be modest. My concern is not just about affordability it truly is my sturdy preference that money ought to be spent on the residing.

This will take me to the question of what does it indicate to be alive. What constitutes quality of daily life and dignity when dying? These are massive, essential questions. I have come to realise that I do not want my daily life to be prolonged artificially. I feel when you want machines to aid you breathe, then you have to inquire concerns about the quality of life being experienced and about the way income is currently being invested. This might be challenging for some men and women to contemplate.

But why is a existence that is ending getting prolonged? Why is cash currently being spent in this way? It could be far better invested on a mother giving birth to a child, or an organ transplant required by a younger person. Money need to be invested on these that are at the beginning or in complete flow of their life. Of course, these are my personalized opinions and not of my church.

What was carried out to Madiba (Nelson Mandela) was disgraceful. There was that event when Madiba was televised with political leaders, President Jacob Zuma and Cyril Ramaphosa. You could see Madiba was not totally there. He did not communicate. He was not connecting. My friend was no longer himself. It was an affront to Madiba’s dignity.

It is important for all of us to talk about death and our dying. A survey was completed of physicians in the United kingdom in 2008. As numerous as two-thirds of them stated they had difficulty discussing end-of-daily life care with their sufferers. Doctors have been once healers of life and easers of death. In the 20th century the coaching for the latter has been neglected.

Death can come to us at any age. The clearer we are about our end-of-daily life preferences, the easier it will be for our loved ones and our medical professionals. I am coming to recognize the importance of possessing a residing will or advance directive, as some men and women get in touch with it. I do not want artificial feeding or to be on an artificial breathing machine – I will not want people to do their damnedest to preserve me alive.

I have learned there are wider societal rewards to living wills. In La Crosse, Wisconsin, where doctors campaigned for decades for all grownups to sign their finish-of-daily life preferences, a single advantage has been the savings, for families, for the government and healthcare organizations – savings now utilised a lot more creatively elsewhere. The second upside is that getting discussions earlier in life appears to put people’s minds at rest and they reside longer – how else do you describe that daily life expectancy in La Crosse is now statistically greater than other similar geographies?

I was asked not too long ago what I would want for myself if I had a terminal sickness and my quality of existence was significantly deteriorating. This yr I followed the situation of the French doctor Nicolas Bonnemaison, who assisted many people to die. It was anticipated that there could be a hefty prison sentence. Numerous witnesses, family members members incorporated, wrote to support the doctor’s actions as compassionate. The doctor was acquitted. There have been jubilant celebrations. And Britain’s supreme court lately ruled that a ban on assisted suicide is incompatible with human rights.

We require to revisit our own South African laws which are not aligned to a constitution that espouses the human correct to dignity. On our own soil Craig Schonegevel, right after 28 years of struggling with neurofibromatosis, made a decision his quality of daily life was too poor. He’d had so many surgical procedures the believed of enduring more was unbearable. He could uncover no legal help to help him die. On the evening of 1 September 2009, he swallowed twelve sleeping tablets, place two plastic bags above his head tied with elastic bands and was located dead by his dad and mom the next morning. Craig desired to end his lifestyle legally assisted, listening to his favourite music and in the embrace of his beloved mother and father, Patsy and Neville. Our legal system denied him and his household this dignity.

I am coming to recognize the value of language on this delicate problem. The words euthanasia and suicide carry damaging connotations. Suicide is deemed a premature death typically accompanied by mental instability. Craig’s thinking was crystal clear he desired autonomy and dignity.

Some say that palliative care, such as the giving of sedation to ensure freedom from pain, should be adequate for the journeying in the direction of an easeful death. Some folks opine that with great palliative care there is no want for assisted dying, no need to have for men and women to request to be legally given a lethal dose of medication. That was not the situation for Craig Schonegevel. Other people assert their appropriate to autonomy and consciousness – why exit in the fog of sedation when there’s the substitute of becoming alert and genuinely existing with loved ones?

I have been lucky to commit my life working for dignity for the living. Now I want to apply my thoughts to the problem of dignity for the dying.

I revere the sanctity of lifestyle – but not at any cost. I confirm I do not want my life prolonged. I can see I would most likely incline towards the top quality of existence argument, whereas other people will be a lot more relaxed with palliative care. Yes, I consider a great deal of folks would be upset if I mentioned I wanted assisted dying. I would say I wouldn’t thoughts truly.

On Mandela Day on Friday we will be contemplating of a fantastic man. On the identical day in London, the Residence of Lords will hold a second hearing on Lord Falconer’s bill on assisted dying. Oregon, Washington, Quebec, Holland, Switzerland have already taken this phase. South Africa has a hard-won constitution that we are proud of that need to offer a basis to manual changes to the legal standing of finish-of-life wishes to assistance the dignity of the dying.

On our continent of Africa, dying as an elderly person is a privilege. We are sadly also acquainted with the early deaths of loved ones. War, violence, HIV/Aids and socioeconomic diseases take their toll. We want a thoughts shift in our societies. We want to think. We need to question. What is existence? And is not death portion of residing – a normal part of existence?

Desmond Tutu is archbishop emeritus of Cape Town and a Nobel peace laureate. He is chair of the Elders, an worldwide group of former political leaders brought collectively by Nelson Mandela to operate for peace, justice and human rights

Why I"m in favour of assisted dying | Desmond Tutu

Befriend the elderly and do yourself a favour, as well

They are gone now, and their stories with them – but how fortunate I come to feel to have heard them. So this year I’ll do as the care minister suggests but I’ll be contemplating of it far more as a pleasure than a duty.

• Meanwhile, that endearingly retro item, the university scarf, has been appearing in the Telegraph’s letters webpage in latest days and once again, these days. Why, wondered Geoffrey Wyborn of Walton-on-Thames, do younger individuals no longer put on them?

Excellent question, Geoffrey. Warm, sensible and tribal – what’s not to like about a college scarf? But style has its reasons, of which explanation is aware of practically nothing. In my university days in the late Seventies, it was social death to be witnessed wearing your personal university scarf, whereas 1 belonging to a boyfriend was an fully diverse matter – chic, enviable and hauntingly most likely to be reclaimed by its owner at any second.

An unscientific survey of the youthful (that is, I Facebooked my son) finds that he’s distinctly unkeen on the thought of a school scarf, but mysteriously connected to his claret and blue West Ham one. “But does not that identify you as, um, a complete loser?” I wondered. I’d much better not reproduce his response right here. The West Ham followers between you can think about it for yourselves.

When it comes to dress, the line between amazing and hopelessly nerdy is each implacable and ever-shifting. It was beautifully demonstrated by yesterday’s Telegraph design page, on which culottes and desert boots – the two objects of ridicule inside of living memory – were trailed as 2014’s subsequent massive fashion issues, along with Seventies style – which is, I suppose, good news for me, as it was the era in which my sartorial tastes were formed.

As it transpires, I’ve already been contemplating about my very own look in 2014. I strategy to base it about a mixture of my favourite Christmas presents: a sweatshirt with an obscure anarchist slogan, and a set of knitted earmuffs in the shape of foxes’ heads. You could laugh now, but just you wait. By this time subsequent yr, you’ll all be sporting them.

Befriend the elderly and do yourself a favour, as well